Showing posts with label garden guy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label garden guy. Show all posts

The Garden Guy’s Tips for Your Houseplants

Tuesday, February 15, 2022

Bruce Bennett, The Garden Guy
By Bruce Bennett, the Garden Guy

As some of you already know, I am not an indoor plant kind of guy. In my compendium of ’interesting’ experiences, I note that compost and air freshener do not provide for the best of living room fragrances (My wife will strongly testify to this fact). 

However, I am mindful that a good number of readers are outdoor gardeners who also have greenery throughout their homes and, then, there are our green-thumbed condominium and apartment dwellers who might want a suggestion or two for the care of their own indoor plants. 

I try to provide folks what they ask for (as well as what they need). So, here are a few tips I have learned through decades of growing lingering anemic plants or totally dispatching them. In general, realize that indoor plants and outdoor plants that are brought indoors cannot be treated as you would outdoor plants. This means extra attention is needed for certain requirements..

Choose plants based on your light

Pixels.com
Assuming you purchase the majority of your own plants, determining their place in the home and the window next to which they will repose should always be a consideration before your buy. 

If you are not sure, your first question should be, “What direction does that window face?” Most indoor plants prefer south-facing windows that offer bright, indirect light for most of the day (Think Cacti, Croton, Jade Plant, Ponytail Plant, succulents, etc.). 

East- and west-facing windows provide partial sunshine, with the former offering a more gentle light (Think Anthurium, Boston Fern, Butterfly Palm, Calathea, Fiddle Leaf Fig, Hoya, Kalanchoe and Monstera, etc.) and the latter with a harsher afternoon light (Think Aechmea, Aloe Vera, Bird-of-Paradise, Christmas/Thanksgiving and Easter Cactus, Dieffenbachia, English Ivy, Strawberry Begonia, Ti Plants, etc.). 

North-facing windows will offer low light (Think Golden Pothos, ferns, Peace Lily, Pinstripe Calathea, Moth Orchid, Snake Plant, ZZ Plant, etc.). When possible, with all indoor plants, remember to do a quarter-turn of plant container every month so that all areas will receive the same amount of sunshine and avoid ‘The Lean’ toward the window.

​Know when to skip the fertilizer

Photo courtesy FamilyHandyMan.com
Be conservative when using fertilizer on your houseplants. Too much fertilizer can do more harm than good. Houseplants tend not to need nearly as much fertilizer as outdoor plants. 

If you choose to fertilize your plant, it’s best to do so during the growing season (April to October) and follow the general rule of thumb of ‘less is more’. 

Consider using half the amount of fertilizer recommended on the package. I have a preference for water-soluble fertilizers, but, an annual once-and-done granular, organic fertilizer is also a possibility.

If you have a new plant or you recently changed the potting soil, forget about fertilizer for a year. There’s enough in the pot already.

Water needs change throughout the year.

Pixels.com
Did you know that it is better to underwater your plants than to overwater them? Over watering can lead to root rot and, ultimately, plant death. Use a watering calendar, rather than a ‘To Do List,’ as a reminder. 

The easiest process is to stick one (unmanicured) finger two inches into a container’s soil to determine if the soil is moist. If it is dry that far down, it’s time to just add water. If manicured fingers are an integral part of your life, consider investing in a moisture meter. They are cheap enough at a box store.

How often you water will also change throughout the year. Plants need less water in the winter months, when they’re growing slower and the home is cooler. 

If the heat is on in the house and the potting soil is drying out quicker, they may need a bit more water. Wilting leaves or soil that looks pulled away from the sides of the planter are signs of a water-stressed plant. Use warm water as it absorbs into the soil the best.

Keep drainage in mind

Photo courtesy FloraGrubb.com
If you tend to have a heavy hand when watering your plants, definitely keep drainage in mind. 

You can opt for a planter with a drainage hole and saucer, or keep your plant in a grow-pot snuggled inside of a larger planter, or add pebbles or gravel to the bottom of a planter with a drainage hole. 

The excess water will drain into the pebbles, evaporate and create beneficial humidity for the plant. 

Do what works best for you! 

Don't be afraid to try different methods for different plants.


Don’t worry about repotting

pixels.com
Finally, repotting doesn’t need to be a right-of-passage for the indoor gardener. It doesn’t necessarily mean tearing the plant apart and putting it in a new container(s). It could be a simple matter of changing out the container’s soil with a fresh potting mix to provide new nutrients. 

Depending on how actively they are growing, plants typically need to be repotted every 18 to 24 months. If your plant has outgrown its current container, you can also use this as the justification to ‘size up.’ 

Choose a planter that is 1 to 3 inches larger than the current one being used. You don’t want your plant roots swimming in soil. This could actually delay growth. You want just a little extra space for them to grow. And, yet, some other plants prefer to be pot-bound. 

Remember to do your horticultural research about specific requirements for each plant you own! They will appreciate your diligence and you’ll appreciate their increasing beauty. It’s a win-win situation, and, isn’t that what we strive for in life? For some reason, life is hardly ever that easy. But, these five tips can easily help to keep your plants healthy and make you look like a house plant star. You rock!

If you have questions concerning this article or would like to suggest a topic for a future column, contact your WSU Master Gardener, Bruce Bennett, at gardenguy4u@gmail.com. See you next month!



Read more...

Garden Guy: The Garden Guy’s New Year’s Resolutions

Monday, January 17, 2022

Bruce Bennett, The Garden Guy
By Bruce Bennett

I don’t make a habit of creating New Year resolutions. Many years ago I realized going through that particular annual exercise was (for me, at least) a futile attempt to change overnight. It seemed to me that going through this mental exercise of good intentions was doomed to failure before the effort even began. 

For instance, I have vowed to lose 20 pounds for the last ten years and, yet, my belt size is still two inches larger than I’d like. However, let me say that I am all for realizing measured improvement over a period of time. 

If January is a good time for the effort to begin, then, why not? Whatever the reason or timeframe, incremental improvement is always good, right? So, let’s consider a few tasks that could be added to a gardener’s list of resolutions……

Photo by WTR time plants
With the leaves off the trees and our gardens in a bare bones state, January is a good time to assess the yard for optimum plant placement and future ‘editing.’ 

Are there open spaces that need to be filled-in or cluttered plantings that might be more attractive if divided or moved to create better color and/or texture combinations? 

Devote a notebook to making notes for each of your yard’s potential project sites during winter that can be followed when the time is right to divide, move, re-plant, etc. Even better, especially for those who are more visually attuned, develop a garden design that shows where all plants are currently located and make the changes on paper first. It beats moving the greenery more than once.

Photo from Pinterest
Examine outdoor gardening tools like rakes, hoes, and shovels. Sharpen the edges of hoes, shovels and the like. You’ll be amazed at how much easier your work will become in the spring. 

Cleaning your tools and oiling them now means less rust and longer life. 

Organize the tools for easy access in the coming months. Simple wall racks available at our local big box stores are relatively inexpensive.

The goal is to know where to locate each tool when it is needed in the spring and finding it clean and in good repair as well.

Let’s face it, gardening is NOT cheap! Consider new ways to cut gardening costs during the year. For instance, consider starting some plants from seeds or learn how to divide your perennials. Look for bare root plant sales in February and March. 

If there are enough fellow gardeners in your neighborhood, organization affiliations or chat groups and set a date to share your divided plants or ones you no longer care for, or, set-up a tool-exchange program. These are good activities for spring or autumn. 

Finally, think about adding two-inches of bark mulch to your planting beds. This task will give you multiple benefits. First, it will protect roots from freezing win winter, reducing the need for new plants in the spring. On the other side of the season, the mulch will help to keep root zones cooler and also retain more ground moisture during those hot dog days of summer, thereby reducing your irrigation bills. Both the plants and you win with this one!

Flower and Garden Show 
photo courtesy visitseattle.org
Use the winter months to educate yourself on a new topic which will improve your gardening expertise throughout the coming years. 

Do you know what you need to know about invasive plants or the latest imported bugs? How about ways to improve your soil or the best ways to prune that tree or those shrubs. 

Also, don’t forget about learning at one of the country’s largest garden shows. The Northwest Flower and Garden Festival is back on in 2022 and will be held on February 9 – 13 at the Washington Convention Center. 

Think acres of display gardens, 100+ seminars and plant vendors of all sorts. For more information, get on the internet and go to: https://gardenshow.com. I’ll be at the Washington State Nursery and Landscape Association booth on Thursday evening and the Master Gardener Program booth on Friday evening. Feel free to stop by, say “Hi!”, ask a question or three and let me know what topics you would like to see me cover in 2022.

Photo from iStock
Between the winter weather and the continuing viruses, you can find yourself sitting around more. So, use the time productively. 

If you don’t have the book(s) you need, check-in with the Elizabeth Miller Horticultural Library at the UW’s Center for Urban Horticulture, read on-line or check with a gardener-friend who might have what you need.

Finally, plot a way to lose those last 20 pounds which is different from the plan that didn’t work last year. 

Ummmm. Perhaps it might be better for my ego to scratch that one! Anyway, the days are getting incrementally longer and your gardens are waiting (along with you) for the weather to warm. Here’s wishing you and yours a green, Happy New Year! 

Send your gardening questions and topic suggestions for 2022 to me at: gardenguy4u@gmail.com. Until next month, happy garden dreaming!


Read more...

Garden Guy: Choosing this year’s Christmas Tree

Saturday, December 18, 2021

Santa Garden Guy photo by Karson Bennett
By Bruce Bennett

It’s December already and I’m still looking for greenery for my house. Only, this time, it’s for the interior of the house. Not something small and pretty, if you please. I want potential, presence and perfume. 

I want a Christmas tree! 

And, as a gardener, I don’t want an artificial one. I want the REAL McCoy, a graceful sentinel which will fill the house with fragrance and create a centerpiece on which to hang the ornaments my wife and I have been collecting for each year we have been married or that have been given to us by friends and family. 

Douglas fir
photo courtesy oregonaitc.org
Every year, the task is the same – What type of tree do we purchase this time? If you are in a similar predicament, let’s spend a few minutes talking about the most popular Christmas tree species in the Seattle area and their pros and cons.

I prefer real trees as they are beneficial for the environment. They can stabilize top soil and create wildlife habitat while they are growing. After they serve in their holiday roles, these conifers can be reused and recycled as mulch, fish habitat, plant stakes and stream bank stabilization. 

They decompose in just a matter of a few years whereas artificial trees can lay in a landfill virtually forever.

From firs to pines to spruces, there are a good dozen or so evergreen conifers that are candidates for the best Christmas tree. After looking at the wholesalers around our greater Seattle-area market, you can expect to see the same five or six varieties. 

My (admittedly subjective) list includes these top four for your consideration.

The Douglas Fir is a quintessential Christmas tree that’s sure to make a statement in any home during Christmas. Growing predominantly in the Pacific Northwest, it accounts for nearly half of all Christmas trees in the United States. 

Blue spruce 
photo courtesy canr.msu.edu
Together with the Noble, they account for around 80% of the Christmas trees sold. The Douglas Firs have soft, shiny green-blue needles. They are one of the densest of the Christmas trees, and, if it has been trimmed to form a perfect cone shape, it can be almost too tight to decorate properly. Still, it's a popular selection for holiday shoppers due to its subtle seasonal scent, widespread availability and budget-friendly price. 

On the downside, Douglas firs don't last as long as other types of Christmas trees. So, choose a freshly-cut tree only a few weeks out from the holidays. Other firs to consider are the Noble, Fraser, Balsam, Concolor, Grand and Nordmann Firs.

Blue Spruce (AKA, Colorado Blue Spruce) is what you want if you would prefer a ‘White Christmas’ (with or without Bing Crosby singing the tune in the background). This Rocky Mountains native tree looks like it’s dusted in snow with its waxy grayish-blue needles and has dense foliage perfect for decorating.

The tree has a strong fragrance and a perfect Christmas tree shape as well And, this is a narrow species, reaching around three feet in diameter. Good for a tight space. The needles range from gray-blue to a silvery blue and are fairly sharp, (so not ideal choice for little fingers!) and the scent is not outstanding. 

However, this is one of the best species for needle retention. And as the tree makes a good ornamental, it's becoming increasingly popular as a ‘living’ Christmas tree. Other spruce to consider are the Norway and White Spruce.

Scotch pine photo courtesy canr.mus.edu

The Scotch/Scots Pine is another ‘Go-To’ Christmas tree candidate. It has stiff, upward curving branches that make it great for holding ornaments and bright green needles that grow in double clusters and range between one and an impressive three inches in length. 

It won't drop its needles even when it's dried out. 

But, wear gloves when handling as the needles can be sharp. It is one of the best choices for hanging both light and heavy ornaments. 

The Scotch Pine has excellent water retention when cut and its durability makes it simple to replant, so you can use it as a living tree year after year. The other pine to consider is the White Pine.

The Red Cedar may be a surprising candidate. But, here it is. Before cultivated Christmas trees became readily available, this was the Christmas tree of choice for many people due to its conical form and fairly long-lasting greenery and a pleasant scent once cut. 

Red cedar
photo courtesy oregonaitc.org
Because it's a member of the Juniper family, it has soft, pliable leaves rather than needles and this makes it less suitable for hanging heavy ornaments. The color range for this variety is wide, including dark green, bluish green, silvery, gray-green and bronze. The other cedar to consider is the Deodar.

Reminders: Whatever variety you choose for your Christmas tree, gently pull on the end of the branch with your thumb and forefinger. Fresh trees should hold onto all their needles. If a tree loses needles when you do the pull test, keep looking. 

When selecting its place of honor in your home, keep the tree as far away from heat sources and air ducts as possible. Make sure to give it a fresh cut at its base (at least 1 inch off the bottom) before placing in a stand. 

Give your new house guest water immediately and regularly to ensure that it lasts a full four weeks—maybe even five! With any luck, you’ll still be enjoying your tree as you ring in the New Year. If you have questions generated by this article or topical suggestions for 2022 articles, feel free to contact your Master Gardener Santa at gardenguy4u@gmail.com

With all that said: From my home to yours, here’s wishing you a warm and festive holiday season. May 2022 see us all come back to a greater sense of normalcy, appreciation for one another and life in the garden. Happy Holidays all!



Read more...

Garden Guy: Herbs past summer

Monday, November 15, 2021

Herbs at the grocery store. Photo courtesy Pinterest
By Bruce Bennett

Yes. It had to happen. Fewer hours of sunshine, cooler temperatures and time spent removing brown and yellow plants from the garden. 

Welcome to Autumn! And, with the changing of seasons, I have received several reader questions concerning what to do with their herbs. 

So, let’s spend this month’s column discussing over-wintering herbs and such. While there are several different types of herbs, we, primarily, use the annual, biennial and perennial ones. 

Basil photo courtesy OsoSeeds.com
Annual herbs, such as Basil. Cilantro and Dill, sprout from seed, flower, and die in a one-year period. 

Biennial herbs, such as Caraway, Chervil and Parsley, develop leaves and sometimes flowers during the first year, go dormant in winter, flower and set seed in the second year before dying. Woody, Perennial herbs, such as Marjoram, Rosemary and Sage, tend to live for years, if not decades. 

How these herbs are over-wintered depends into which group they fit. As we typically use the herbs’ leaves, let’s focus on those plants rather than the seed producers.

Annual herbs, such as Basil, Pineapple Sage and Stevia, complete their lifecycles between March and December. Attempting to keep them past summer’s annual herbs alive and productive is an exercise in futility and waste of your time. 

Instead, grow your own new plants from seed. Use a good potting soil rather than garden soil. Potting soil drains much better than the soil and contains no possibly harmful diseases. Find pots and a water-holding tray that will fit on your south-facing window sill. Windows facing other points of the compass can be used but may need the addition of grow lights to keep the herbs healthy and growing. 

Certainly, do read the directions on the back of the seed pack, but, in most cases, sprinkling the seeds on top of the soil, adding another quarter-inch of soil over the seeds and thoroughly water-in the pot is all you will need to begin a fine batch of new herbs for use over the winter months. Start some now!

Mint photo from blog.nurserylive.com
Perennial herbs
are plants that live for a minimum of three years and, generally, longer. They are categorized as either woody, such as Sweet Bay and Oregano, or herbaceous perennials, such as Chives and Mint, respectively. 

Both of these classifications can also be divided into two main groups: hardy and tender/half-hardy. In Seattle, hardy herbs usually stay in the ground over winter. 

If the weather is forecast to be worse than usual, a two-inch layer of bark mulch or leaves placed over the root zones is appropriate protection. I continue to harvest the evergreen herbs, like Oregano, Rosemary and Sage, during the cold months for use in soups, stuffing and with meats. 

Pot-sized versions of these herbs can be moved from outdoors to that sunny kitchen window without too much of a problem. Remember to water them, but, let them dry-out a bit between watering. Misting will help them in the hotter, drier indoor settings. Herbaceous perennial herbs, such as Chives and Lemon Balm, can also be brought indoors and harvested all winter.

Half-hardy/tender perennials, such as Lemon Verbena, can be productive for many years. However, the secret to their longevity is bringing them indoors before the first frost as their hardiness usually doesn’t extend much below Zone 8 (the greater Seattle-area is around Zone 7 – 8). .

Biennial herbs are the easiest ones to discuss. The second year’s foliage of these plants tend to be less vigorous and tasty than when the herb was planted. Unless you are growing them for their seed, make your life easier and, at the end of the growing season; simply pull them as you would an annual.

Herbs - Drying - Photo courtesy
web.extension.illinois.edu
With all harvested herbs, remember to wash the plants in cool water and spread them on towels. Then, pat them dry with a towel. A sunny and well-ventilated room is an excellent spot for drying. 

You could also use frames covered with cheesecloth or other netting, or metal window screens with cheesecloth laid on top for drying. Prepare the frames or screens before you cut the plants.

For larger leafed herbs, such as Lemon Verbena, Lovage, Mint, Sage, and Tarragon, strip the leaves from the stems before drying. 

Then, spread these leaves in single layers for quickest drying. Herbs with smaller leaves, such as Oregano, Rosemary, Savory and Thyme, can be dried on the stems and stripped from the stems when dried. 

Herb leaves should dry in three to four days under proper conditions. Then place them in an air-tight container.

Herbs - Market - Photo courtesy
university.upstartfarmers.com
Some herbs do not dry well at home. Instead, you can freeze them. Handle them as you would for drying. 

Then after washing, blanch them in boiling, unsalted water for 50 seconds, cool quickly in ice water and blot dry. 

Spread them in a single layer on paper or cookie sheets and place them in the freezer. 

After the herbs are frozen, place them in airtight plastic containers or bags. Other options include using herbs to flavor vinegar or oil.

Considering just how pricey herbs are at the Farmers Markets or in the grocery stores, growing and preserving your own is not only a great cost-saving effort, it also makes for tastier meals and provides you with bragging rights when with family and friends.

If you have questions concerning this article or care to suggest a topic for future columns, contact Bruce at gardenguy4u@gmail.com. Happy winter gardening all!

Bruce Bennett, The Garden Guy
~~~
Contributing columnist, Bruce Bennett, has served as a WSU Master Gardener, WA Certified Professional Horticulturalist and gardening lecturer for more than twenty years. 

He is the managing partner of a Seattle-area garden design company and is an instructor with WSU College of Agriculture, Human and Natural Resources



Read more...

Garden Guy: The Beasties of Halloween

Monday, October 18, 2021

By Bruce Bennett

Welcome to Autumn! 

I say that with a bit of surprise in my voice. After all, wasn’t spring just beginning a couple of weeks ago? 

Even with the pandemic slowing things down around Seattle, the seasons seem to be changing too rapidly for my liking. 

And yet, Autumn does have a special place in my New England heart. 

To be back among the rolling hills of Woodstock for the fresh-squeezed apple cider, the 200 lb. wheels of aged Vermont cheddar cheese, the scent of burning leaves on the breeze and, of course, the insistent knocking on the front door on All-Saints Day or the national celebration that children love and dentists bemoan – HALLOWEEN! 

While I do enjoy the diminutive ghosts, goblins and witches who paraded up the front walk, they are no match for those other, more scurrilous beasties who are, even now, reaching out toward the perimeters of our northwestern territory. They come hidden in ship cargo holds, skulking in loads of firewood and flitting on the breezes of our city. .

As The Garden Guy, of course I’m talking about insects! In this case, it’s about new invasive species that mean to do us harm in order to create spaces for themselves. Most have come in directly from Asia or, indirectly, through Canada and from the east coast. 

These new little beasties will not settle for Halloween candy, not even melt-in-your mouth chocolate. They are after the trees and shrubs in your yards, neighborhoods and forests. Here is my subjective list of the top culprits to watch out for and to report to state agencies. We’ll get to that later…..

Murder hornet from nature.org blog
The first of our Halloween-esque denizens is the much publicized Murder Hornet
(cue the music from ‘Jaws’). More appropriately known as the Giant Asian Hornet (Vespa mandarinia), it ranks as the world’s largest hornet and can grow to two inches long, with a wingspan of some three inches.

These hornets need meat to feed their young and they are pretty direct at getting it. Among available protein sources, they prefer honeybees. 

A handful of Murder Hornets can decimate a honeybee hive in a day. They do so by biting off the heads of our much smaller native and European honeybees and then feeding the headless thoraxes to their larvae. 

Definitely an insect worthy of a picture in your Halloween calendar. Unlike honeybees, Murder Hornets can sting multiple times and have venom several times more potent than local bee or wasp (think about a hot tack puncturing your skin). Fortunately, they are not terribly aggressive around humans unless their nest seems threatened. Then, they can be people killers. 

Thus far, they have only been sighted north of us in Bellingham, Blaine and British Columbia. Their potential damage to orchards, flowering plants and the honey industry will be huge should these thugs secure a foothold in our state.

Japanese Beetle - usdeptofagriculture.org
The Japanese Beetle (Popillia japonica) is a garden pest native to northern Japan
. The glistening green and copper colors of their wing cases give them a look of bronze scarabs which would, fittingly, accessorize a child’s King Tut costume. 

The insect is pretty, especially in the evening sunlight, but … the half-inch long adults eat the leaves of plants, LOTS of plants, while the larvae attack the roots, particularly the roots of grasses. 

Roses are a particular delicacy for them. These insects were, and still are, the scourge of my Connecticut garden. Plants already stressed by our hotter summers may not survive with the added pressure of infestations from these invaders. They have been a problem on the east coast and in the midwest for decades. 

We haven’t seen them in Washington before, but, with our new warmer temperatures, they were found in Idaho and at a few sites south of Portland this past year. So, it’s only a matter of time, I fear.

Brown Marmorated Stink Bug - njaes.rutgers.edu
The Brown Marmorated Stink Bug (Halyomorpha halys) is native to East Asia
and was first noticed in the United States in the late 1990s, possibly having arrived in yet another shipping container. 

These half-inch long suckers will attack a large variety of plants, including many fruits and vegetables. They leave small necrotic patches on any plant eaten rendering produce inedible for human consumption. 

As a homeowner, you will likely notice an invasion before anyone else, because this stink bug initially will attack vegetable gardens and landscape plants. The damage they do to crops and landscapes, as well as the efforts to control them are costly. 

These beasties will then spend the winter in homes and other structures. Look for them on the south side of your homes as the weather cools.

Lanternfly - tapinto.net
Probably, the most colorful (and newest arrival) of our Halloween beasties is the Spotted Lanternfly (Lycorma delicatula).
Its red, white and black colors do remind me of a masked kabuki dancer (or a member of the Sith for you Star Wars fans). 

Another of the vampire-like piercing-sucking drinkers, the Lanternfly hails from eastern Asia, has spread through the mid-east coast states and is appearing in California and southern Oregon. 

As with the Japanese Beetles, I think it is only a matter of time for the greater-Seattle-area to see their presence. 

Lanternflies feed on a wide variety of plants, with apples, cherries, grapes and plums being among their smorgasbord preferences. So, another problem for both homeowners and agricultural farms. Also, like birch borers and aphids, Lanternflies excrete large amounts of honeydew, which can cover lower-growing plants and promote the growth of sooty mold. 

And, I don’t even want to mention what they can do to the outside of a car parked under a ravaged tree. 

These kabuki-looking bugs are about one-inch long and brightly colored (although the youngsters are black at first with white spots). As members of the leafhopper family, their flights are very short, more of a hop and glide. They will be noticeable to you.

With these four harbingers of death and decay prowling the borders of our own Shires, we can all do something to help protect our yards, city and the state economy. 

First of all, kill or trap these ‘Most Wanted’ interlopers when you see them! (Ed. the state wants to take murder hornets alive) Then, report any sighting to the Washington State Department of Agriculture, 360-902-1800 or https://agr.wa.gov/ or the Washington Invasive Species Council reporting app, https://invasivespecies.wa.gov/  

As the citizens in these upcoming battles, we, as simple gardeners, will have a more positive impact on ecology than the folks in the other Washington. Good luck!

Have questions about this article? Care to suggest a topic for a future gardening column? Contact your WSU/King County Master Gardener at thegardenguy4u@gmail.com

Happy Halloween! all and beware of both the two-footed and eight-footed creatures that may be wandering your neighborhood streets this month with tricks and for treats!



Read more...

The Garden Guy: Reasons to Choose Your Next Plant

Friday, September 17, 2021

botanicgardens.uw.edu

Earlier this month, the Garden Guy stopped by a number of garden centers to see what was still available in this year of live goods shortages. Whether I was at Fred Meyer, Home Depot or Swanson's, my conversations with other gardeners usually included the topics of this summer’s unusual heat waves and the (re)evaluations of lagging plants in the landscape. 

It concerned me that many people were looking for a quick ‘little something’ to fill the hole left by the perennial or shrub that had succumbed to the weather. It concerned me that immediate gratification usually took the place of considered research when would-be gardeners were in the process of choosing their next plant. 

I referred to the ‘class’ I informally ran through multiple times that weekend as ‘Reasons to Choose a Plant for the Garden’ and, who knows, it might just turn into one of the actual lectures I present around King County.

Heat - earthobservatory.nasa.gov

Given the heat-related gardening issues I heard from others, plant hardiness and climate change should be among a gardener’s initial concerns. Greater Seattle is usually considered to be a USDA Zone 8 region. 

However, we do occasionally have a worse-than-usual winter; so, consider purchasing plants that are good down to Zone 7 or 6. On the other end of the scale, plant hardiness to Zone 9 or 10 is also a good thing as our summer become hotter. Theses hardiness zones are usually listed with the plant. 

A related issue is drought-tolerance. Once the plant is established (think three years after transplanting), can it survive with a minimum of water? If these pieces of information are not included with the plants you have your eye on, do a bit of immediate smartphone research on the internet before making the purchase.

Research the full size of a plant
If you are spending $50 for a shrub OR $250 on a tree, doesn’t it make sense to spend five minutes checking the climate tolerances and growing conditions for a potential new addition to your landscape? 

You might want to consider planting a rockrose (Cistus) rather than a rhododendron.

Speaking of rhodies, how many times have you noticed shrubs crowding out their neighbors or a full-size tree growing way too close to the house? 

These issues can be alleviated by researching the mature size of a plant. Remember that plant tags usually provide you with the plant size after ten years of growth. But, plants, like people continue to grow after that point in time, just a bit slower. 

 House and Tree #1 - bas eco.net
I have rhododendrons in my back yard which reached the stated 6’ x 6’ size after ten years as was noted on the plant tag. But, fifteen years beyond that, they reached 10’ x 10’ and 12’ x 15’, respectively. 

Luckily, they were provided with enough room when I initially planted them (and, yes, after I moved a few other shrubs to different spots in the yard.)

This plant size information is particularly important with trees. 

Mature trees are not easy to relocate, are costly to have removed and even more costly if they damage a building foundation or roof. 

House and Tree #2 - aaatree.net
Remember that the cute, little five-gallon twig you want to purchase may really need to be installed fifteen to twenty feet away from the side of your home.

Also, with trees, there are a few other factors to consider. 

Evergreen trees, be they needle or broadleaf, create a continued presence in the landscape and they are great for continual screening and shading. 

They do, however, grow at a slower rate than their deciduous counterparts. 

Between evergreen and deciduous candidates, I will almost always vote for the leaf-dropping specimen. 

Yes, deciduous trees may be messier than evergreens, but they make-up for that failing with quicker growth, flowers, colorful leaves and interesting, sometimes colorful, bark in winter.

Cercidiphyllum japonicum
/Katsura Tree
Beyond the aesthetics of deciduous trees, I enjoy the practical aspect of their ability to lessen my utilities bills. 

When planted on the south or west sides of a home, deciduous tree reduce the amount of summer sunshine reaching and overheating the building, thus holding down air conditioning costs. 

Conversely, with the arrival of winter and the loss of leaves on branches, sunlight more readily reaches the walls of a home which help warms the building and reduces heating costs. 

In addition, after leaf-fall, new vistas in your neighborhood are opened for changing visual interest.

Finally, let’s consider ‘the WOW Factor,’ AKA, color spots in the landscape. 

Color is one of the great benefits of perennials, shrubs and trees in the home landscape. And, do think beyond the usual ephemeral spring and summer flowers. 

More permanent color can be had and enjoyed through the use of leaves, bark and berries.

 Cornus alba 'Elegantissima' leaf - OSU
With some plants, home owners can experience three and four seasons of different WOW reasons. 

In the effort of full transparency, I must admit that evergreens can come in a variety of green, yellow and blue shades that will provide more interest to your yards. 

Flowers can add colors from white, to red, to blue, and just about everything in between. 

For the rest of the year, think about the advantages of adding red or yellow stems, variegated bark and/or colorful berries along with the usual autumnal leaf colors.
 
Cornus alba ‘Elegantissima’/
Variegated Redtwig Dogwood
Thinking in longer terms than what you see in the garden center now will add to your long-term enjoyment of the little piece of heaven you call home.

If you need other reasons to choose a new plant, let me know and I’ll decide if another article on the topic is needed.

The Garden Guy

Contributing gardening columnist, Bruce Bennett, has been a WSU Master Gardener, landscape designer and lecturer for more than twenty years. He is the managing partner of a Seattle-area garden design firm and is an instructor with WSU Extension’s College of Agriculture, Human and Natural Resources. Contact Bruce with your plant problems, gardening questions and article suggestions at gardenguy4u@gmail.com



Read more...
ShorelineAreaNews.com
Facebook: Shoreline Area News
Twitter: @ShorelineArea
Daily Email edition (don't forget to respond to the Follow.it email)

  © Blogger template The Professional Template II by Ourblogtemplates.com 2009

Back to TOP