Showing posts with label garden guy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label garden guy. Show all posts

GardenGuy: Planting an Autumn Vegetable Garden

Tuesday, August 20, 2024

By Bruce Bennett

It’s August already! How did that happen? It seems it was only a few weeks ago that I was watching my spring bulbs emerging to brighten a slate-gray early spring landscape. Now, you may think August is not the best of times to plant anything new in the way of perennials and shrubs, but, what about an autumn veggie garden. 

Let’s reconsider that idea. Think about the positive side of the positive side of this endeavor: the soil is already warm, many vegetables enjoy cooler temperatures and this year’s seed packets are probably on sale, whether online or in the stores. 

When you think about what your piece of real estate costs and the reduced amounts of water you’ll need for irrigation, you can’t afford NOT to use your veggie garden as much as possible and, remember, autumn gardening increases your garden usage by, at least, 30%. The cost of all those new fresh veggies you didn’t need to purchase can go toward paying your October property taxes!

Chard. Photo from creativecommons.org
You are probably seeing bare spots of soil that have already been harvested in your planting beds. But there are any number of veggies that can still be late-planted to fill those gaps and get you through the autumn and winter weather. 

In general, vegetables that grow best in cooler weather are leafy greens, root crops and members of the cabbage (Brassicas/Cruciferous) family. They can all do well in our USDA Zones 7 – 9 late-season gardens. Think about adding beets, carrots, endive, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, mustard greens, peas, radishes, turnips, spinach Swiss chard and oriental vegetables like Chinese cabbage and Bok choy. 

And, there are more. All can be planted in August for autumn and winter harvesting. In addition, garlic can be planted as late as two to four weeks before the first frost and harvested the following summer. 

Shallots can be planted after the first frost. Don't plant earlier because any top growth they may send up will be impacted by early autumn frosts. 

The other great things about an autumn garden include the benefits of fewer plant-damaging pests and diseases around, fewer weeds to challenge your backs and knees and that warm soil surrounds you. Plus, the autumn rains mean you won't need to water as frequently, if at all. Some crops even taste better when subjected to some light frost.

Lettuce and kale.
Photo from Pexels.com
Believe it or not, I think my autumn crops of lettuce, mesclun and Swiss Chard are better tasting than the ones I harvest in spring. 

Also, multicolored stemmed ‘Bright Lights’ Swiss Chard backed by ‘Red Sails’ Kale, makes a decorative planting whether or not you decide to eat them. 

I have had similar good results with fall plantings of Brussel sprouts which tend to be more tender and sweeter. Okay, I understand that Brussel sprouts are not for everyone’s tastes, but, there are plenty of other nutritious alternatives that can grace your plates and stews. 

When shopping those on-sale seed racks, choose veggie varieties that are touted as ‘shorter or fewer days to harvest’, ‘for cooler temperatures’ and ‘cold hardiness and quick maturity’. 

Being a good gardener also means being a good researcher. Read the fine print on the seed packs!

Image from pixabay.com
According to the WSU Extension, the average date for the first fall frost in western Washington is right around November 10. 

So, you have quite a bit of growing time left for vegetables that are planted in August. Spinach and other greens can even be planted in September. 

All the vegetables listed above can easily survive light frost if provided with some kind of protection, and some can even make it through all the way the cold winter weather. 

Remember that the warm Summer weather which often follows the first frost is some of the best growing weather of the year for cool weather plants When you hear about an impending frost, consider tossing a spun floating row cover (AKA Remay) over the new seedlings. Even plastic sheeting or old bed sheets can do the trick.

Frost can make your vegetables taste better.
Image by pexels.com
When planting seeds for your fall garden, keep in mind that growing conditions are different for summer plantings:

*Rains are usually still infrequent but heavier. Provide constant soil moisture for good germination and to get your plants well established.
*Plant seeds deeper than in the spring so they will be in a moister and cooler layer of the soil. It is also a good idea to shade newly emerging seedlings until most have germinated and matured to the point of having true leaves and/or the weather has cooled.
*Expect longer growing times. As temperatures drop, germination and growing times may increase. You might need to add a week or two to the expected time your harvests.
*Think about adding mulch to the growing beds. Mulch is an excellent autumn vegetable bed addition. It helps keep soils cool when falls are unseasonably warm and, then, insulates plant roots when frosts and cold weather do arrive.
*At the end of your extended growing season, or prior to the next traditional spring planting, remember to add your soil amendments. Compost and slow-acting organic fertilizer are beneficial for most planting beds to feed the plants, improve soil texture, feed the soil microbes and better retainment of moisture. Consider loosening the soil a bit if it became compacted over the previous growing season.

These easy steps can add a new gardening experience (and a tasty one at that!) to any gardener’s repertoire of horticultural skills. Could you be the only house or condo on the block who can still say, “Why, yes, this is from my over-producing garden.” in the months of December or January. Show the neighbors that you are ‘the one’ to talk to about their gardening questions and bask in the glory of the autumn sunshine. 

Happy gardening all!

Additional Reading
Forkner, Lorene E. Guide to Vegetable Gardening in the Pacific Northwest. 2013. Portland, OR: Timber Press.
Taylor, Lisa (ed). Maritime Northwest Garden Guide. 2014. Seattle, WA: Tilth Alliance.
Thorness, Bill. Cool Season Gardner. 2013. Seattle, WA: Skipstone.

GardenGuy Bruce Bennett
Contributing columnist, Bruce Bennett, is a WSU Certified Master Gardener, Certified Professional Horticulturalist and lecturer. If you have questions concerning this article, have a gardening question or two to ask concerning your own landscape or want to suggest a topic for a future column, contact him at: gardenguy4u@gmail.com.

Previous GardenGuy columns can be seen here.


Read more...

Garden Guy: Looking For Alien Garden Visitors

Sunday, June 16, 2024

Alien garden visitors
By Bruce Bennett

As the days lengthen and the weather warms, newspapers and magazines are filled with articles and pictures of the newest plants coming into the retail marketplace and designs for sun and shade. By contrast, whenever my group of professional gardening colleagues get together for an alfresco cup of morning coffee and we discuss warming weather, we’re usually discussing the latest warm weather waves of invasive insects that may begin chewing on those newest plants in the very near future.

In North America, more than 3,400 non-native insect species are established (including, of course, the beneficial European honeybee). Fortunately, only about 10 percent of these non-natives are considered ‘invasive’ meaning they cause significant damage to native ecosystems and agricultural crops. 

Naturally, the Pacific Northwest is not immune to the winged beasties and we do our best to combat the culprits who already call the Pacific Northwest home as well as prepare for the hitch-hiking interlopers that are on their way here to chow-down on our juicy plants. As many of these insect infestations are initially found by homeowners and gardeners during the summertime, let’s use this month’s column to update you about which terrors to watch for during the early summer weather.

Japanese Beetle. Photo by wsu.edu

One of the newest invaders to Washington State is the Japanese Beetle (Popillia japonica). They were first noticed in New Jersey around 1916. They have since become established in just about every state east of the Mississippi River and have been making their way to some of the western states. 

Their first Washington appearance was in Sunnyside in 2021 and, this year, reached Yakima. The Cascade Mountains will pose a barrier to them, but, as with the other insects mentioned on this list, it’s only a matter of time until they hitchhike a ride on a commercial vehicle or RV and reach the western part of the state. 

They are most noticeable in their adult forms as fingernail-sized beetles with glistening green and copper colors to their wing shields. They look like bronze scarabs which could easily serve as jewelry for an Egyptian costume. But ours will leave skeletonized leaves in their wakes; LOTS of skeletonized leaves. Why is it always the pretty ones that do the most damage?

In winter and spring, the beetle larvae attack the roots of plants, particularly the roots of grasses. Roses are a particular delicacy for them. These insects were, and still are, the scourge of my Connecticut garden. 

Plants already stressed by our hotter summers may not survive with the added pressure of infestations from these guys. They have been a problem on the east coast and in the midwest for decades. We haven’t seen them in Washington before, but, with our new warmer temperatures, they have recently been found in Idaho, at a few sites south of Portland and near Yakima. So, it’s only a matter of time, I fear.

Depending on their life stage, Japanese Beetles can be controlled in a few ways. With small populations of adult insects, hand-picking, pheromone traps, insecticidal soaps and Neem Oil can be effective in June – September. 

The beetles lay their eggs in early summer, so, in July – September, using HB (Heterorhabditis bacteriophora) beneficial nematodes, the root-feeding grubs can be located and killed. Other options for grubs are BT (Bacillus thuringiensis) which is, to a grub, a stomach poison and Milky Spoor (Bacillus papillae), a bacterium that interrupts the insects’ blood system.

Emerald Ash Borer. Photo by cfans.umn.edu

The Emerald Ash Borer
(Agrilus planipennis) is a small Asian, wood-boring beetle that has already killed millions of ash trees in North America. First discovered in 2002, near Detroit, MI, the adults will be noticed as narrow, half-inch long slivers of metallic green on tree bark. The larvae burrow under the tree’s bark and eat the sapwood which transports water and nutrients throughout the tree. 

Once damaged, the layers can’t transport nutrients causing the leaves and the trees to gradually die. While not yet in Washington, the EMBs were recently noticed just west of Portland, OR. There are a few systemic insecticide soil drenches which have been found to be fairly effective against these borers. However, they do need to be applied every other year.

Spotted Lanternfly. Photo by canr.msu.edu

Probably, the most colorful insect of the invasive hordes is the Spotted Lanternfly (Lycorma delicatula). Its red, white and black colors remind me of a masked kabuki dancer (or a member of the Sith for you Star Wars fans), although the youngsters are black at first with white spots). 

Another of the vampire-like piercing-sucking drinkers, the Lanternfly hails from eastern Asia. It was first noticed in Pennsylvania in 2014 and has now spread through the mid-eastern coast states and is appearing in California and southern Oregon.

Lanternflies feed on a wide variety of plants, with apples, cherries, grapes, plums and hops being among their smorgasbord preferences. Not good news for home or commercial growers. 

Also, like birch borers and aphids, Lanternflies excrete large amounts of honeydew, which can cover lower plants and promote the growth of sooty mold. And, I don’t even want to imagine what they can do to the outside of a car parked under a ravaged tree. 

For smaller infestations, organic solutions such as insecticidal soaps, Neem and botanical oils appear to be effective. For larger problems, think about using contact poisons and systemic drenches. In both instances, contact the appropriate State agency.

Spongy Moth / Gypsy Moth. Photo by entsoc.org

The Spongy Moth, AKA, Gypsy Moth, (Lymantria dispar) have been in-country for many years. Originally native to Eurasia, and unlike most invasive insect pests, this fuzzy beastie did not stow away on some cargo ship and escape to fertile New England forests. It was actually imported to Boston in 1868 by several entrepreneurs who were interested in developing a silk industry in North America. 

Instead of serving as the foundation of a new business venture, the Spongy Moth has become one of the worst American forest pest insects. It devours the leaves of more than 500 different species of trees and shrubs and causes enormous damage to the environment and the economy. 

Following the banning of DDT, the Spongy Moth reached some of its greatest population numbers, culminating in my home state of Connecticut with the extensive outbreaks of 1971 and 1981. Those outbreaks are legendary in both forestry and arboricultural circles. A wide range of tree species were stripped clean and the woods were turned bare due to the extensive feeding of these insects. The caterpillars covered houses, roads, and sidewalks. 

They were even blamed for traffic accidents, as people would skid on their massed numbers in the roadways.

The Spongy Moth appears in Washington every now and then after hitching a ride on some unsuspecting vehicle, RV or ship. The Department of Natural Resources is currently spraying newly found infestations in different parts of the State. 

While municipalities continually check for infestations, gardeners and homeowners can also do their part. Spongy moth caterpillars can be controlled with applications of the biological insecticide, Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki (Btk). It must be applied to the foliage of the plants the caterpillars are feeding upon and will control them while they are still small and becoming less effective as they grow larger. 

This bacterial insecticide kills caterpillars that eat it within a week of its application by damaging the insect’s digestive tract. Like Btk, certain foliar spray products can pose fewer risks to other insects. This group includes insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, pyrethrins, and spinosad. The soaps, oils, and pyrethrins only kill when sprayed directly onto spongy moth caterpillars and are very short-lived. 

While they can be a good option for smaller plants, these ingredients are not a good option for larger trees.

Giant Asian Hornet / Murder Hornet. Photo by invasivespecies.wa.gov

While more commonly known as the Giant Asian Hornet (Vespa mandarinia), this publicized ‘Murder Hornet’ (cue the music from ‘Jaws’) ranks as the world’s largest hornet and can grow to two inches long, with a wingspan of some three inches. 

These hornets need meat to feed their young and they are pretty direct about getting it. Among protein sources, they prefer honeybees. A single Murder Hornets can decimate a honeybee hive in a day. They do so by biting the heads off the much smaller honeybees. 

Unlike honeybees, Murder Hornets can sting multiple times and have venom several times more potent than local bees and wasps. Fortunately, they are not terribly aggressive around humans unless their nest seems threatened. 

They arrived in Washington in 2020 and, thus far, they have only been sited and exterminated north of us in Bellingham, Blaine and British Columbia. This insect, with its half-inch stinger, is not something gardeners should fool around with. The best eradication advice is to contact the Washington State Department of Agriculture or the Washington Invasive Species Council and let the pros handle the problem.

Brown Marmorated Stink Bug

A Brown Marmorated Stink Bug (Halyomorpha halys) is another native of East Asia and was first introduced in Allentown, PA in 1998, possibly having arrived in a shipping crate. It arrived in Washington in 2010. These half-inch long suckers will attack a large variety of plants, including many fruits and vegetables. It leaves small necrotic patches on any plant it eats, rendering produce inedible. 

As a homeowner, you will likely notice an invasion before anyone else, because this stink bug initially will attack vegetable gardens and landscape plants. The damage they do to crops and landscapes, as well as the efforts to control them are costly. These beasties will then spend the winter in homes and other structures. 

Look for them on the south side of your homes as the weather cools. Presently, there are no viable strategies for control of the Brown Marmorated Stink Bug, although insecticidal soaps and neem oil seem to be effective against stink bugs, especially early in the season. Remember to read and follow the directions and safety precautions on the labels.

It is homeowners, campers and hikers who are usually the first to notice all of these new invasive insects. Trees, lights and standing water are great places to look for insects. Checking yards regularly plays a critical role in protecting Washington’s unique environment from the pests. Citizens can help spot infestations when they are easy to handle. 

This not only saves time and money, but limits the damage these beasties can cause to our gardens, local and national parks and farms and forests. Residents who find a suspected invasive insect are encouraged to take a picture and report it via the Washington Invasive Species Council or the Washington Department of Agriculture. Be aware of what organisms, beyond the plants, are living in your little pieces of verdant heaven.

Finally, with the coming of May, most of the King County Master Gardener Clinics opened to assist the residents of their surrounding communities. 

For the readers of the Shoreline Area News, the closest the closest clinics may be found at the 
  • Lake Forest Park Town Center Ace Hardware (17171 Bothell Way NE, Sundays, 10:00 AM – 2:00 PM) and the 
  • Shoreline Farmers Market (18821 Aurora Avenue N, some Sundays, 10:00 AM – 2:00 PM). 


Happy gardening all!

Further Reading
  • Bradley, F.M. et. al. Natural Pest and Disease Control. 2009. New York, NY: Rodale, Inc. 
  • Cranshaw, Whitney. Garden Insects of North America. 2018. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press. 
  • Entomology Society of America Web Page, https://www.entsoc.org 
  • Washington Invasive Species Council Web Page, https://invasivespecies.wa.gov/ 
  • Washington State Department of Agriculture Web Page,https://agr.wa.gov

Bruce Bennett
Gardening columnist, Bruce Bennett, is a WSU Certified Master Gardener, lecturer and Seattle-area garden designer. 

If you have questions concerning this article, have a gardening question or two to ask concerning your home landscape or want to suggest a topic for a future column, contact Bruce at gardenguy4u@gmail.com.

Previous Garden Guy articles can be seen here.


Read more...

Garden Guy: May in the Garden

Saturday, May 18, 2024

By Bruce Bennett

This month, I have taken to sitting on the back deck with my morning coffee in-hand and enjoying the fresh emerging beauty of springtime across the landscape. The new ruby-tinted foliage of the Andromeda/Lily-of-the-Valley Shrub ‘Variegata’ (Pieris japonica) echoes the red flowers of the ten-foot-tall Rhododendron ‘Vulcan’ and the newly opened buds of Azalea ‘Hino Crimson’. 

Pittosporum. Photo by andre-briant.fr
These plants are color counterpointed by the whites of the shrub New Zealand Pittosporum/ Kohuhu ‘Variegata’ (Pittosporum tenuifolium – pictured left), COSTCO-size pots of cascading green and white Wintercreeper ‘Emerald Gaiety’ (Euonymus fortunei) and the upright exclamation points of Sweet Iris ‘Variegata’ (Iris palida). 

Later in the season, the flowers of Crabapple ‘Golden Raindrops’ (Malus transitoria) and Mountain Laurel ‘Olympic Fire’ (Kalmia latifolia – pictured below) will repeat this red and white color combination. 

The views and scents carried on the warming air make the work of gardening worth all the effort.

The background of deep burgundy leaves from the Purple Smoke Bush ‘Purple Robe” (Cotinus coggygria), added to the blooming bulbs and emerging hostas, make all the colors in the yard POP. 

All this botanical wonder tells me we are in ‘the lovely month of May.’
Kalmia. Photo by landscapeplants.oregonstate.edu

We have passed the final major hurdle of winter – the Last Frost Date. Depending on your local micro-zone, this date is somewhat flexible. Even my own North Seattle dates will vary from one year to the next. These days, I’d say that April 15 – 20 is appropriate for most USDA Zone 8/9 plants. 

However, do remember that frost dates are based on historical climate data and are not set in stone. Over-all climate change will have these dates moving earlier in the year. 

The probability of frost occurring after the spring frost date or before the first autumn frost date is 30%, which means there’s still a chance of inflicting itself upon our yards before or after the stated dates! 

Always keep an eye on your local weather forecast and plan to protect tender new plants accordingly. Regardless of when the big box stores and garden centers begin selling herbs and vegetable starts, for me, the planting of warm weather taste-treats, such as basil, cilantro and the all-important tomatoes, does not happen until after May 1. 

As many of you already know, I’m a thrifty (AKA cheap) Connecticut Yankee and don’t intend to spend the money on these cold-tender plants more than once a year!

I usually say that I have a large ornamental and perennial garden. The fact is the entire area around the house is garden, with the only lawn to be seen in my surrounding neighbors’ yards (Hmmm, we may need to take a look at the topic lawn alternatives in the future – what do you think?). 

In order to stay on top of gardening tasks, my wife and I keep a loose schedule of jobs to be completed. By the end of March, the planting beds have been spring-cleaned and last year’s perennials cut back, as well as the shrubs that that flower on new wood. 

There is a bit of bed edging to do and fertilizers or compost to spread. In April, we transplanted and divided everything that needed it and, of course, started to add new plants to the ever-changing landscape. Let’s face it, gardens are never done! They continue to be works-in-progress and teach us that Life is all about change.
Now, it's May and I can totally enjoy the beauty of last year’s work and this spring’s recent efforts. The biggest job on the May ‘To-Do List’ is mulching. 

I think there will be some two yards of medium-ground bark mulch in my near future. Remember, that one important reason to mulch is to keep the soil cool in the summer and retain moisture. 

If you are looking forward to planting annuals, let the soil warm up a bit more. 

If you plant your annuals too early in cold soil, they will just sit there doing nothing until a bunny (Easter or otherwise) comes along to eat the tender growth. 

It's best to wait until May 15 to plant annuals in the ground. While you are waiting, though, if you haven't already done it, plant your pots. Soil in pots gains heat much quicker than ground soil, so, plant them. I usually do mine by the end of April. Should we get a frost warning, move them into the garage overnight or stick a garden stake in the center of them and throw a tarp, sheet or piece of plastic over their heads to make a temporary cloche.

Bulbs. Photo by perennialgardens.org
As the bulbs finish flowering here and there in the yard, they should be deadheaded. Cut just the spent flowers or entire flower stem off, but never the leaves. 

Cutting the leaves off prematurely will prevent the bulb from completing its photosynthesis process which allows the plant to convert the sun's energy to necessary nutrients. In other words, the bulb will weaken and eventually disappear if you continue to cut off its green leaves. 

Wait until the leaves turn brown. You can fold the leaves with a rubber band to make browning leaves less noticeable. Planting your bulbs among later emerging perennials (I like hardy geraniums for this job) and groundcovers will also help to camouflage the withering leaves.

Azl Bud. Photo by plants.ces.ncsu.edu
During April and May, you have been enjoying the blooms of all early flowering shrubs. May is the time to prune those shrubs if you want to reduce their size or otherwise change their shape. Also check for damaged, diseased or crossing branches and cut them out.

If you pay attention to your azaleas, lilacs, rhododendrons, etc., you will notice that shortly after blooming they start setting next year's buds. If you prune these shrubs in July, which many people do, you will get few-to-no flowers next year. Prune them shortly after they finish flowering before they set those new buds.

Now back to the mulch. Choosing the type of mulch to use is also a topic for another article. However, whatever you choose, wait until the soil is warm, then add two to four inches. Spread it carefully around your emerging perennials and shrubs and newly planted annuals. 

The mulch will not only make your garden look finished, it will also keep the soil cool in the heat of summer, help retain water, prevent weeds and add organic material to your soil. After spreading my mulch over a planting area, I like to use a pre-emergent, such as corn gluten, to prevent/reduce weed seed from germinating without damaging other plants that are already growing.

When your neighbor's dandelion seeds blow into your garden, the pre-emergent will stop them from developing for up to three months. Just remember not to spread it anywhere you are counting on certain flowers to self-seed.

Photo by bendoregon.gov
I think of March, April, and May as the building block months for gardens. When the above-mentioned tasks are completed and the mulch is spread, I see the hard work of the new gardening season is over (and I can rest my back). 

The remainder of the growing year consists of, basically, general light maintenance, watering, insect/disease vigilance and the all-round sensory enjoyment of what has been created (preferably from the back deck with a cup of coffee, in-hand of course). 

Happy gardening all!

Bruce Bennett
Contributing garden columnist, Bruce Bennett, is a Washington State University Master Gardener, Certified Professional Horticulturist and lecturer. 

If you have questions concerning this article, have a gardening question about your own garden space or care to suggest topics of interest for future columns, contact Bruce at gardenguy4u@hotmail.com

See previous Garden Guy columns here.



Read more...

The Garden Guy chooses new plants for 2024

Monday, April 22, 2024

By Bruce Bennett

As a home gardener, one of the satisfying rituals of spring is finding new garden treasures; those plants that are making their debut in the retail marketplaces. They are generally sports or hybrids of plants that have been on the market for years, with the new ones having a different sense of style and usage to them. Or, they can be new hybrids. 


Whether larger or smaller in size; darker, lighter or variegated leaves or larger flowers; etc., all have the ability to add something ‘extra’ to the humble part of your landscape that cries out to be noticed. A little dramatic? Perhaps. But, you get the gist of what I’m saying. 

 No part of a landscape needs to be boring. It is worth too much in the way of underutilized garden space, monetary value and in satisfying your aesthetic senses to be just ‘Okay.’ A new vignette may be just the thing to enliven the space and create a smile on your face on your face when gazing at the site.

This year, growers and hybridizers seem to have outdone themselves and have brought a bumper crop of hundreds of new (and, of course, improved) plants to garden center shelves and tables. Although I have not actually viewed all of the new candidates, what I have seen at the Northwest Flower & Garden Show, area plant trials and wholesale growers’ beds, have provided me with several contenders for your attention. 

My prime considerations for Western Washington new plants-of-note include drought and heat tolerance (after root systems are established), disease resistance, low maintenance and, of course, presence in the garden. This year, my candidates for your horticultural scrutiny include perennials, grasses, shrubs and trees (sorry folks, I don’t do annuals). Seek them out, do your own research and evaluate their worthiness for that needy spot in your own yard…….

Artemisia x ‘Silver Lining”
(White Sagebrush/Wormwood)
Artemisia x ‘Silver Lining” White Sagebrush/Wormwood

My top perennial choice doesn’t have much in the way of flowers, but, the foliage is a solid winner. A hybrid of two North American natives (the clumping Alaskan artemisia and the Western US artemisia) uses the best of its parentage to create a spectacular, durable foliage perennial. 

The broadly dissected silver leaves are showy from spring to fall. The mounded, low-wide habit maintains excellent form all season and resists opening up, like ‘Silver Mound’. 

Use this new perennial as a filler, color transition divider or backdrop in a landscape of flashy colors and or as spiller in mixed containers. Its yellow flowers are held on tall scapes and I would cut them off.

In addition to its durability and excellent summer heat and drought tolerance, this artemisia will not rambunctiously spread through the garden as does its cousin, ‘Valerie Finnis.’ 'Silver Lining' forms a non-stoloniferous 15" tall x 36” wide, winter deciduous groundcover with cutleaf silver foliage. Best results will be in average to dry soils, either sandy or clay. If those resilience attributes weren’t enough, this plant is also both deer and rabbit resistant.

Perennial runners-up include Agapanthus africanus ‘Bridal Veil’ (Lily-of-the-Nile), Brunnera macrophylla ‘Frostbite’ (Siberian Bugloss),Heliopsis helianthoides 'Bit of Honey' (Ox-eye Sunflower), Heuchera x ‘Forever Midnight’ (Coral Bells), and Teucrium fruticans ‘Harlequin’s Silver’ (Creeping Germander).

Panicum virgatum 'Niagara Falls'
(Switch Grass)
Panicum virgatum 'Niagara Falls' (Switch Grass)

This native from the Great Plains is an excellent grass in just about any landscape. With its late season seedheads and arching habit, ‘Niagara Falls’ is a good replacement for Miscanthus senesis. 

The powder blue leaf blades arch gracefully in the landscape, creating a soft cascading look. In early autumn, seed head plumes rise above the foliage creating a cream-colored cloud that gives the area texture and interest which will last through winter. 

Because of its foliage interest, this four-foot-tall grass is a multi-purpose plant that can be used in borders, containers, as specimen or in mass plantings. It is versatile and great looking, just what a plant should be!

It is an easy ornamental grass to grow in full sun to part shade and it will do well in just about any soil type in our part of the State. Remember to water it and cut it back in spring before the new growth appears and you have covered all of your maintenance bases. 

That’s right, save yourself some work and leave the buff-colored stalks to over-winter. In early fall, the seed head plumes that rise above the foliage will create a cream-colored cloud above the plant and will provide visual interest and bird habitat that will last through the winter doldrums.

Grass runners-up in this category include Amsonia hubrichtii ‘String Theory’ (Bluestar), Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Lemon Squeeze’ (Fountain Grass) and Schizachyrium scoparium 'Brush Strokes' (Little Bluestem).

Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Eclipse’ 
Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Eclipse’ (Big Leaf Hydrangea) is a shrub that has been receiving rave reviews from garden centers this spring. 

Probably because the shrub retains its dark foliage, rather than fading back to green, during the summer heat. The combination of the intense dark foliage and stand-out cranberry-red and white blooms makes for an excellent color counterpoint in just about any yard and, hopefully, a great dried-flower arrangement in a vase.

‘Eclipse’ is purported to have great disease resistance and low maintenance requirements. At three to five feet tall and wide, ‘Eclipse’ is size-appropriate for just about all smaller urban gardens. For its first three to five years, this hydrangea is a prime candidate for a porch or balcony container. After that, it will need annual pruning to keep it within bounds. 

As with most hydrangeas, this plant does best in morning sun and some afternoon shade. However, it can thrive in more sun in Western Washington if additional moisture is provided. ‘Eclipse’ is cold hardy down to Zone 5a and can take both our summer heat and winter cold snaps. If you are purchasing only one new plant this year, definitely consider the multi-faceted ‘Eclipse’ (and let me know how it does for you).

Shrub runners-up include Abelia x grandiflora ‘Angel’s Blush’ (Glossy Abelia), Calycanthus floridus, ‘Simply Sensational’ (EasternSweetshrub), Hydrangea paniculata ‘Little Hottie’ (Panicle Hydrangea), Ilex x meserveae ‘Little One’ (Blue Holly), Vaccinium corymbosum ‘Midnight Cascade’ (Hanging) Blueberry and Vitex agnus-castus ‘Queen Bee’ (Chastetree).

Cercis canadensis ‘Garden Gems
Amethyst’ (Redbud)
Cercis canadensis ‘Garden Gems Amethyst’ (Redbud) is a new dwarf tree which also features dark leaves and is compact enough to grow in a pot. It’s a slow grower that can reach eight to ten feet tall and wide, which is about half the size of a standard redbud. 

It flowers in early spring, sparkling with pink blooms before the foliage appears. In summer, the leaves will hold their amethyst color through our heat domes.

‘Amethyst’ is one of those plants I’d call a ‘nativar’ (a cultivar of a native plant, a Redbud in this case) that is pollinator-friendly, making it increasingly popular with the bee-lovers of our area. 

This new hybrid attracts pollinators and creates the perfect conversation piece in a small landscape or on a condo patio in full sun to part shade.

If you don’t happen to care for the look of dark foliage, a sister (cousin?) Redbud will be coming out that has leaves which emerge red and then turn green. It’s called ‘Garden Gems Emerald.’

Tree runners-up include Heptacodium miconioides ‘Temple of Bloom’ (Seven-son Flower), Hesperocyparis arizonica ‘Crystal Frost’ (Arizona Cypress) and Thuja standishii × plicata ‘Leprechaun’(Leprechaun Arborvitae).

Readers should remember that this list is totally subjective. It is based on the plants I have seen and liked for their hardiness, versatility and’ WOW’ appeal that the neighbors don’t have. Use this list to kick-off your own horticultural sleuthing of those new additions at your favorite garden center. 

The downside of new-plant shopping is to remember the qualities of patience and perseverance. As new introductions, these little treasures may not appear in your area for a while. Do ask the garden center staff if the plant in question can be ordered or your name added to a Waitlist. That tactic has worked for me many times over. Best of luck with this annual rite of Springtime and the newfound joy in your little patch of heaven. Happy gardening all!

Contributing columnist, Bruce Bennett, is a WSU Master Gardener, lecturer and garden designer. If you have questions concerning this article, have a gardening question to ask concerning your own landscape or want to suggest a topic for a future column, contact Bruce at gardenguy4u@gmail.com.

See previous columns by Bruce Bennett here


Read more...

Garden Guy: Dahlias for a late season experience

Saturday, March 16, 2024

By Bruce Bennett

Yes, it is March and still too early to plant many gardeners’ favorite flowering tuber, the Dahlia, despite what may currently be on sale at Costco and our area box stores. 

It is a ‘Look at ME!’ perennial that can stand as a specimen plant or be massed around taller shrubs and serve as a bright spot in a mixed border. 

What it can’t stand is the cold of our winters when the plant reduces down to a brown heap in the garden. So, why discuss it now – in late winter? 

The reply is an easy one: Tubers showed up in multiple booths at the recent NW Flower and Garden Show and will be on sale at the annual Puget Sound Dahlia Association Sale later this month. More about this event at the end of the column.

What is there not to love about dahlias?
Photo by PugetSoundDahlias.com

What is there not to love about dahlias?

These blousy beauties are easy to grow and provide great color spots in the landscape. They have many eye-catching flower sizes, shapes and colors. 

 After all, there are some 40 species and over 20,000 varieties of these blooming sweethearts in the horticultural world. 

Consequently, a gardener should have no problem finding the right combination of height, color and shape for the garden focal point that needs a bit of pizzazz. 

Dahlias are an attractive floral statement whether planted in the garden or in a patio container that will bloom from mid-summer through the first heavy frost. Also, as cut flower arrangements, they will brighten a kitchen table in early autumn.

First decide where you want to grow your dahlias – in a dedicated bed, along a fence or building, as a border, a mixed or dedicated garden or in containers? The location will determine what cultivars to select as they vary greatly in size. It is not recommended to plant the larger cultivars forms as borders or in containers. Low growing dwarf size cultivars such as the Collarette dahlias will be excellent in porch and balcony containers.

When selecting tubers, look for firm and large ones with multiple eyes. If you buy early, like at the Flower and Garden Show, box stores or the Puget Sound Dahlia Association’s tuber sale, store them in a cool (50-60 degrees F.), dry and dark place. The basement or near the house-adjacent wall of the garage should do nicely.

Tubers. Photo by PugetSoundDahlias.com
Dig a planting hole larger than the tuber. 

Incorporate compost and a sprinkle of bone meal. Plant the tubers four to six inches deep and laid horizontally with the ‘eyes’ pointing up (as much as is possible). 

When planting your dahlias, place large cultivars two feet apart in holes that are four to six inches deep. Around one foot apart is good for the smaller varieties. 

Doing this will provide good airflow and reduce fungal issues (like Powdery Mildew). 

Dahlias prefer loamy, well-drained soil and adding compost and a bit of bone meal will improve drainage and feed the tuber roots. If the area is too wet, the tubers will rot. A sunny location that will provide at least 5 to 8 hours of sun per day is required to grow healthy dahlias. Soil temperature should be pushing 50 degrees F before planting. 

Expect the plants to reach maturity and bloom in about eight to ten weeks. 

I tend to plant the tubers outdoors at the end of May in a sunny south exposure garden. For each tuber, dig a hole 4 – 6 inches deep and plant the eyes 2 inches below the soil. This is also a good time to add support stakes. You can see the tubers and won’t pierce them with the stakes. 

Water-in thoroughly after planting. Your dahlia foliage will emerge from the eyes at the top of tuber crown. They will appreciate supplemental water and an organic fertilizer, something like 5-10-10 or 10-20-20 once a month. Depending on air temperatures, your plants may need to be watered three or so times a week. Container-grown plants may need to be watered daily. Think about pinching plant tips after 2 to 3 sets of leaves have developed and two weeks later to encourage fullness. Removing spent flowers will encourage more blooms over a longer period of time.

Dahlias’ worst enemies tend to be slugs and aphids. Slugs can decimate young plants overnight. Sprinkle your favorite slug and snail treatment in the planting bed or, get really organic, and simply hand-pick them off the plants. To control aphids, direct a strong stream of water at the infected leaves where the aphids are doing their dastardly deeds.

Photo by PugetSoundDahlias.com
Dahlia tubers are USDA Zone 8 – 10 hardy plants and, in our part of the world, there is a perennial end-of-season discussion about them: leave or dig. 

If you are an optimistic gardener, leave the tubers in the ground and cover the area with tree or fern leaves or mulch. If there are dahlias that you really love, then digging some or all of them makes the most sense. 

Carefully dig up your tubers after the first frost kills the leaves. Cut the stalk down to around 3”, shake of any extra soil and, if dealing with multiple varieties, label your tubers. Then, lay them in the sun (or protected spot if frost is in the offing) to dry. Store them in a container with a bedding medium of your choice. 

For a number of ecological reasons, don’t use peat moss. Instead, opt for vermiculite, wood chips (wood shavings used for small pets), or sand. Other options include wrapping the tubers in newspaper or plastic wrap. There is no single answer for the medium. Experiment and find what works for you. During winter storage, inspect the tubers periodically to be sure they remain in good condition. If they appear to be drying out, spritz the medium with a spray bottle. If a tuber feels mushy, discard it before it infects the rest of the tubers.

Photo by PugetSoundDahlias.com
Store the complete crown, if possible, or divide it into smaller groupings. The eyes on the top of the crown will be more noticeable after storage. So. It’s probably easier to divide in spring. Come planting time, check the tubers one last time. Put aside the healthy and discard the wrinkled or rotten ones. 

You are now ready to start planting around May. You can plant the whole crown or divide it into 2-3 tuber plants. Do enjoy these brilliant color spots throughout your summer/autumn planting beds. They are soooooo easy to grow and worth bringing color to the yard and into your home. Happy gardening!

The Puget Sound Dahlia Association Tuber Sale will be held this March 22 - 23, 2024 from 10:00am – 2:00pm, at the Bellevue Botanical Garden, 12001 Main Street, Bellevue, WA

Annual show at Sky Nursery
Photo by PugetSoundDahlias.com

The annual regional Dahlia Exhibition is the largest such dahlia program in the country and is scheduled to be held August 10 - 11, 2024 at Sky Nursery, 18528 Aurora Ave N, Shoreline WA. Look at the Exhibition’s flowers this August and purchase the tubers next March.

Further Reading:
  • Albrecht, Kristine & Sprinsock. Brion, DAHLIAS: Seed to Bloom. 2023. Independent Publications: Santa Cruz, CA.
  • McClaren, Bill. Encyclopedia of Dahlias. 2009. Timber Press: Portland, OR,
  • Rowlands, Gareth. The Gardener’s Guide To Growing Dahlias. 2003. Timber Press: Portland, OR.
Garden Guy Bruce Bennett
Contributing columnist, Bruce Bennett, is a WSU Certified Master Gardener, Certified Professional Horticulturist, garden designer and lecturer. 

If you have questions concerning this article, have a gardening question to ask concerning your own landscape or want to suggest a topic for a future column, contact him at gardenguy4u@gmail.com

Read his previous columns here


Read more...

You know Spring is almost here when ….. the Flower & Garden Show arrives

Wednesday, February 14, 2024

You know Spring is almost here when …..

By Bruce Bennett
Photos by Steven H. Robinson

Well, ….. when the country’s best garden show again rises from the concrete floors of the Seattle Convention Center Summit (900 Pine Street) beginning Wednesday, February 14, and running through Sunday, February 18, 2024.

February 14-18, 2024
  • Wednesday - Saturday: 9am - 8pm
  • Sunday:  9am - 6pm
Half a dozen varieties of fern
Whether you are a horticulturalist, a home gardener or an apartment dweller with a couple of containers on your deck, the Northwest Flower & Garden Festival will provide you with information and ideas about all aspects of ornamental and edible gardening.

The sheer size and diversity of the show can take your breath away. It not only offers an opportunity to experience the beauty and diversity of the natural and cultured worlds in a spectacular setting, the show is also designed to teach gardeners how to develop their ideas and turn them into practical landscapes.


Some 120 seminars, held in three lecture halls, allow you to listen to local, national and international experts in the horticultural world discuss design and growing issues from civilizing the back five acres of your land to developing an indoor herb garden. 

Also, look for talks dealing with climate issues, pollinator gardens, drought-resistant design and plants, etc. These programs blend excellent visual images showcasing cutting-edge advice as well as practical demonstrations of tools and pruning, creating garden art, tips for successful gardening and planting, and floral arranging from the garden — there’s something for everyone. See one seminar or see dozens! 


They’re all included in the cost of a ticket. Drop in every day and discover something new. Check out the seminars being presented over five days 

After all those seminars, see much of the advice used in the various display gardens. This year will have twenty gardens, covering some three acres of floor space. 


Each garden was developed with a different theme ranging from very wild and woodsy to life around a manicured backyard lawn (as well as lawns that are drought-tolerant where nary a blade of grass can be found). Think of the water savings on your utility bills! 

Reimagined uses for repurposed trees
Some of the noted trends in the display gardens include many reimagined uses for repurposed trees, a reuse of metal I-beams and cortan (weathered) steel and slow moving water features (versus traditional stream and fountains).

Slow-moving stream

With these types of events, you can’t forget the marketplaces and Seattle has the largest Marketplace in the country! With over fifty nurseries, garden centers and growers, this year’s plant market will be the largest one ever and will offer more trees, shrubs and perennials than ever before. 


Whether you are looking for indoor plants or outdoors, you’ll find something to tickle your fantasy and provide a color spot for you. After all, there will be thousands of and thousands of plants from which to choose. 

New and unusual plant offerings

Save some time to look at new plant offerings. If you have questions concerning growing conditions, plant sizes, etc., not only are the growers’ representatives able to answer many questions, Washington State University will be staffing a double-sized booth filled with Master Gardeners to discuss immediate-need questions as well as general horticultural education.


Then, you can expect to traverse the marketplace aisles to view another 300 gardening-related vendors, including diverse items such as jewelry, art, tools, seed/bulbs/tubers, equipment and the ever-present and much loved ‘tchotchke.’ If you can’t find the right gardening item, it probably doesn’t exist.

Plants, windows, and a round fountain

Whether gardener or not, most find the Flower Show to be quite the stimulating experience, with fragrant and colorful blooms in every direction. Walk through the main entrances to the show and you're bound to pull out your iPhone or camera to record the colors and designs that appeal to you. 


Take home a new plant, learn about rain gardens, or chat with experts on how to grow the perfect orchid. 

Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just starting to dig in the dirt, there’s something for everyone at the 2024 NW Flower and Garden Show. Make the commitment to make the time to look and listen. 

ADMISSION

Two Day Pass (valid any two days of the show, one per person): $40
Adult:  $27
Student (ages 13-23 or with valid student ID): $13
Children (ages 12 & under): FREE
Five Day Pass (valid every day of the show, one per person): $80
Half Day Pass (entry after 3pm on Wed. - Sat. and 2pm on Sun.): $14
Group (minimum purchase quantity of 20): $18 each


Read more...
ShorelineAreaNews.com
Facebook: Shoreline Area News
Twitter: @ShorelineArea
Daily Email edition (don't forget to respond to the Follow.it email)

  © Blogger template The Professional Template II by Ourblogtemplates.com 2009

Back to TOP